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Coconut and spice

Coconut as the partner of spice along the tropical coasts, as milk, paste or oil.

A ring: peppercorns and other round berries, tipped from the jar and counted by the spoon.

Also: coconut curry, coconut masala, thengai arachu, santan

Across Kerala, Sri Lanka, coastal Karnataka, Goa, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and the Caribbean, coconut and spice are inseparable. Grated coconut is ground with chillies, coriander and cumin for South Indian masalas; coconut milk carries lemongrass, galangal and chilli in Thai curries; coconut oil fries mustard seeds and curry leaves in Kerala. The fat softens chilli burn and rounds sharp spice, and its sweetness balances sour tamarind or kokum. Because coconut milk can split at high heat, it is added late and simmered gently. Toasting grated coconut with spices, as in Karnataka and Sri Lanka, adds a roasted, nutty depth.

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