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Kaiseki

Japan's formal seasonal meal, where spice is restrained and used as an accent: sansho, wasabi, yuzu, ginger.

A ring: peppercorns and other round berries, tipped from the jar and counted by the spoon.

Also: kaiseki ryori, Japanese multi-course meal, washoku spice use

Kaiseki is the multi-course meal of Japanese haute cuisine, with roots in the tea ceremony. It places great weight on season, presentation and the natural flavour of ingredients. Spice plays a quiet role: freshly grated wasabi with sashimi, sansho pepper sprinkled on grilled eel, grated ginger with fish, a few threads of yuzu zest in a clear soup, and togarashi at the noodle course. The aim is accent, not heat, with each seasoning chosen to sharpen one flavour. Japan's tradition of restraint contrasts with the layered spicing of South Asia, and shows that spice can be as much about subtlety as intensity.

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