Spices of Sanaa
The old capital of Yemen, whose Old City souq sells hawaij, cardamom and other spices.
Traded and grown here
Best time: October to March, subject to conditions.
Sanaa's Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has tower houses and a souq arranged by trade. Yemen was an old stop on the incense and spice routes and has its own spice mixes, including hawaij.
Spices and trade
Hawaij is a Yemeni mix, often in two types: one for soups and meat, with cumin, black pepper, turmeric and cardamom, and another for coffee, with ginger, cardamom and cinnamon. Yemen also grows coffee, and the old souq trades in spices, incense and honey.
The place and its people
Yemeni cooking includes saltah, a stew topped with fenugreek froth, and bint al-sahn, a honey-dipped layered bread. Yemeni Jewish communities carried hawaij to Israel.
Visiting
Check current travel advice before any trip. The country has been in conflict since 2014.
A trail idea for Sanaa
- The old souq Look for spices, honey and incense.
- A saltah restaurant Eat the national stew.
- Tower houses See the old city skyline.
- A coffee house Taste spiced Yemeni coffee.
Written by the EveryMasala desk with AI assistance. Background: "Sanaa" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and tours change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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