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Spices of Tbilisi

The capital of Georgia, with markets selling khmeli suneli, adjika, blue fenugreek and walnuts.

Traded and grown here

Khmeli suneliTrigonella caeruleaAdjikaCoriander

Best time: May to October.

Tbilisi sits on the Mtkvari. Its Dezerter Bazaar and the stalls of the old town sell the dried herbs and seed mixtures that define Georgian food, such as khmeli suneli and svanuri marili, Svan salt.

View of Tbilisi from Tabori Church
Photo: Alexey Komarov, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Spices and trade

Khmeli suneli is a blend that often includes blue fenugreek, coriander, marigold petals, dill and savory. Svan salt mixes salt with garlic, coriander and other spices. Adjika is a hot pepper paste. Walnuts, pomegranate and tkemali plum sauce are important too.

The place and its people

Georgian feasts, called supra, are led by a tamada, or toastmaster, and the table carries many dishes. Georgia has an old wine tradition.

Visiting

Dezerter Bazaar is a working market, and spice stalls often sell small bags suitable for gifts.

A trail idea for Tbilisi

  1. Dezerter Bazaar See spice mixes and walnuts.
  2. A supra dinner Eat khinkali and badrijani.
  3. Old Tbilisi Walk the sulphur bath district.
  4. A wine cellar Taste qvevri wine.
About this page

Written by the EveryMasala desk with AI assistance. Background: "Tbilisi" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and tours change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.

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