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Terroir of spice

The way soil, altitude, climate and curing shape a spice, so the same plant tastes different by origin.

A leaf: bay, curry leaf, kaffir lime, pandan. Often added whole and taken out before serving.

Also: origin character, regional spice quality, single-estate spice

Terroir describes the influence of place on flavour, and spices have it too. Cardamom from Kerala's high hills differs from Guatemalan, vanilla from Madagascar differs from that of Tahiti, and Sri Lankan cinnamon differs from Chinese cassia. Black pepper from Tellicherry in Kerala is prized for large berries and complex aroma, and Kashmiri saffron for its colour. Altitude, rainfall, shade, harvest time and drying method all alter oil content and flavour. Protected origins, geographical indications and single-estate sales try to record these differences. Cooks may find that a more expensive origin is worth it for a finishing spice, and unnecessary in a long-cooked stew.

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