Onam sadya

Spices for Onam sadya

Onam welcomes the legendary king Mahabali, and the sadya, the vegetarian feast on a banana leaf, is its heart. Kerala is the land of black pepper, so pepper appears in rasam and in the thin soup (kaalan is soured with yoghurt, olan is mild with coconut milk) while ginger goes into puli inji, a sweet sour tamarind relish known as inji curry that counters the richer dishes. Sambar uses a roasted spice mix of coriander, fenugreek and chilli; avial, made with vegetables and a ground coconut paste, is finished with coconut oil and curry leaves. Payasam, the closing milk dessert, is flavoured with cardamom and dried ginger. About 20 dishes may be served in order, each with a place on the leaf.

The spices

Black pepperKerala's signature spice, used in rasam and in sadya relishes.GingerCooked into inji puli, the sweet, sour relish served at the edge of the leaf.CardamomScents payasam, the closing sweet dish.